Leather Oud

Olfactory family

Primary: Leather

Secondary: Woody · Smoky · Phenolic

Olfactory profile

Dry and phenolic on first contact — a tarry, birch-tar-facing leather rather than a suede one — with a smoky edge that reads immediately as “oud” to most noses. The heart is woody and slightly medicinal, holding a straight line without the fermented, shifting complexity of a natural agarwood distillate. It is tenacious and highly consistent between batches, which is the practical argument for using it. A composed material: legible, reproducible, and deliberately narrower than the natural it evokes.

Facets

LeatheryPhenolicSmokyWoodyTarryDry

Character

Dry, intense and linear. Strong presence, high tenacity, no seasonal or batch variation.

Nature of the material

The manufacturer’s label states: “Firmenich proprietary technology. Reverse engineering strictly prohibited.” The composition is not disclosed and is supplied for use as-is.

Origin

Trade designation: Leather Oud

Documented origin: Switzerland — confirmed on manufacturer label (“Country of origin: Switzerland”)

Manufacturer: Firmenich, Meyrin-Satigny, Switzerland — confirmed on the manufacturer’s label. Product code 1002426.

Production method

Compounded from aroma chemicals to a proprietary formula. Full composition: not disclosed by the manufacturer. Declarable constituents appear in the safety information below and in the SDS.

Specifications

Documentation available

Use in perfumery

Position: Base note · accord · structural material

Used as a ready-made leather-oud base, either as the whole leather accord in a formula or as reinforcement under a natural oud. Suited to work where CITES exposure, cost or batch consistency rule out natural agarwood — including commercial production runs where a natural could not be secured reliably.

Effect in composition

Adds a dry leathery-smoky depth and structural weight in the base. Introduces contrast against sweet or floral materials above it, and gives a formula an oud impression without the paperwork a natural distillate carries.

Blends well with

Olfactory affinities — not a statement of shared sourcing.

• Rose Oil — Type Taïf — fully compounded rose-leather accords
• Rose Bulgaria Absolute — natural rose over composed leather
• Cistus / Ciste Épuré Absolute — leather-amber base
• Oakmoss INCO 20 — leather chypre
• Iris Resinoid Extra — dry powdery counterweight
• Agarwood / Oud Oil — reinforces a natural oud base

Perfumer’s perspective

Worth considering when a leather-oud effect has to be reproducible, affordable and free of CITES complications. It will not stand in for a natural agarwood in a brief that genuinely requires one — the linearity is obvious side by side — but as a base material in its own right it is efficient and reliable. Note the corrosive classification: this material demands more careful handling than anything else in the catalogue.

Availability and ordering

Status: Stock confirmation required before firm order.

Write to info@ambreroyale.de or use Request a quote.