Iris Resinoid Extra

Olfactory family

Primary: Powdery

Secondary: Rooty · Woody · Violet

Olfactory profile

Quiet at first — a dry, earthy rootiness with very little immediate projection. As it warms, the violet-like irone character emerges, powdery and faintly buttery, with a cool woody undertone that never turns sweet. It is a slow material: on a blotter it takes time to open and then holds almost unchanged for days, which is exactly why it is used as a fixative as much as for its own smell.

Facets

PowderyRootyVioletEarthyWoodyButtery

Character

Dry, cool and understated. Low diffusion, very high tenacity — a texture material rather than a statement material.

Botanical origin

Iris materials in perfumery are normally produced from Iris pallida or Iris germanica. We do not state which applies to this lot until the manufacturer confirms it in writing.

Origin

Trade designation: Iris Resinoid Extra

Documented origin: France

Manufacturer: Payan Bertrand. “Extra” is the manufacturer’s quality designation, not a graded standard.

Extraction method

Solvent extraction of the dried, aged rhizome. Iris rhizomes are conventionally dried and stored for several years before extraction so that irones develop; ageing time for this lot is available on request.

Specifications

Documentation available

Use in perfumery

Position: Base note · fixative · texture material

Used to give a formula a powdery, slightly cosmetic texture and to slow the evaporation of lighter materials above it. Because a resinoid differs from a concrete or an absolute in solubility and viscosity, it may need warming or pre-dilution before it can be weighed accurately.

Effect in composition

Adds texture and softness, introduces a dry rooty facet, and lends a formula the impression of quality that iris is prized for. Also rounds harsh woody or leather materials without sweetening them.

Blends well with

Olfactory affinities — not a statement of shared sourcing.

• Rose Otto — Turkish (Anatolian) — powdery rose structures
• Mimosa Absolue Naturelle — soft honeyed floral
• Oakmoss INCO 20 — dry chypre base
• Cistus / Ciste Épuré Absolute — amber and leather bases
• Iris Concrete — complementary iris textures
• Leather Oud — dry leather constructions

Perfumer’s perspective

Worth considering when a formula needs weight without sweetness, or when a woody base has to read refined rather than raw. Iris is expensive per gram, but it is used at low levels and its effect on the impression of quality is disproportionate to its dosage.

Availability and ordering

Status: Available.

Sizes from 1 g to 100 g can be ordered directly; the 1 g size serves as an evaluation sample. Partial lots and the complete lot are available on enquiry — use Request a quote or write to info@ambreroyale.de.