Oakmoss INCO 20 Low Atranol

Olfactory family

Primary: Mossy

Secondary: Earthy · Woody · Leathery

Olfactory profile

Dry, inky and earthy — wet bark and forest floor rather than anything green or fresh. The opening is almost austere, with a bitter, slightly phenolic edge; it deepens into a woody-leathery body that never sweetens. Its function in a formula is structural: oakmoss supplies the dry floor that makes a chypre a chypre, and no synthetic reconstruction reproduces its particular flatness and depth. This low-atranol quality is somewhat cleaner and less inky than traditional oakmoss absolute.

Facets

MossyEarthyInkyWoodyLeatheryBitter

Character

Dry, dark and tenacious. Low diffusion, strong presence — felt as texture and weight more than as a distinct smell.

Botanical origin

Oakmoss absolute is conventionally produced from the lichen Evernia prunastri. We state this as the trade-standard attribution; confirmation for this lot can be requested from the manufacturer.

Origin

Trade designation: Oakmoss INCO 20 Low Atranol

Documented origin: France

Manufacturer: Biolandes. “INCO 20” is the manufacturer’s product designation.

Extraction method

Solvent extraction of the lichen, followed by a treatment that reduces atranol and chloroatranol content. Process detail is proprietary to the manufacturer: consult technical documentation.

Specifications

Documentation available

Use in perfumery

Position: Base note · structural material

The defining material of the chypre accord, paired with bergamot above and labdanum below. Also used in fougères, leather bases and masculine compositions, and at low level as a drying agent to stop a sweet formula from turning cloying.

Effect in composition

Adds depth, dryness and a natural earthiness. Gives a formula a floor, absorbs excess sweetness, and lends the impression of classical construction that is difficult to obtain by other means.

Blends well with

Olfactory affinities — not a statement of shared sourcing.

• Cistus / Ciste Épuré Absolute — the classical chypre base
• Rose Bulgaria Absolute — floral chypre
• Iris Resinoid Extra — dry powdery structure
• Jasmine Sambac Absolute — floral chypre heart
• Blackcurrant Bud Absolute — modern chypre opening
• Leather Oud — leather-mossy constructions

Perfumer’s perspective

Worth considering whenever a formula reads sweet, flat or synthetic in the base. The low-atranol quality is what makes oakmoss practical again for commercial work — but treat the reduced figures as a starting point for compliance, not as a licence to overdose.

Availability and ordering

Status: Available.

Sizes from 1 g to 100 g can be ordered directly; the 1 g size serves as an evaluation sample. Partial lots and the complete lot are available on enquiry — use Request a quote or write to info@ambreroyale.de.